FAQ's for iPunch Home      

Last update:  March 22, 2005

F.A.Q.'s for iPunch Version 7 & 8 click here
                  For F.A.Q.'s on iPunch V6.7, E.D.Tools and SEDS click here

Operating iPunch
What are the Minimum System Requirements (i.e. computer specifications) for running iPunch? It is recommended that your PC have at least the following to operate iPunch successfully:
   -  PC:  iPunch works only on Windows (not Macintosh) based 
      computers.  Recommended Windows versions Windows 98
      Second Edition, Windows XP professional or home edition
      
   - Monitor:  At least 17" (diagonal size) or larger
   - Processor:  Pentium 3 or better, 800 Mhz clock speed or faster.
   - Video Card:  Any video card capable of display resolution mode
     of 1024 x 768 pixels / 16-bit high color or better.
   - Memory:  If running Windows 98 or 2000, at least 128 Mb RAM.
     If running Windows XP, at least 256 Mb RAM.
   - Hard Disk Space:  At least 200Mb (including program install
     space and work space)
   - External Storage:  3.5" Floppy disk drive, CD/DVD burner
   - Pointing Device:  Mouse or other preferred pointer
   - External Ports:  parallel port or USB port (ask TEXMAC
     sales representative)
   - Additional Devices: Flatbed scanner capable of 1200 x 1200
     dpi resolution or greater.
  
 
What are the Recommended  System Requirements (i.e. computer specifications) for running iPunch?  What is the difference between minimum and recommended requirements?  For optimum operation of iPunchHome, it is suggested that your PC have at least the following to operate iPunch successfully:
   -  PC:  iPunch works only on Windows (not Macintosh) based 
      computers.  Recommended Windows versions Windows 98
      Second Edition, Windows XP professional or home edition
      
   - Monitor:  19" CRT or 17" LCD monitor.  LCD is ideal for those
     spending a lot of time in front of a computer screen.
   - Processor:  Pentium 4 or AMD Athlon XP.  1.4 Ghz clock speed
     or faster.  Avoid processors like Intel Celeron.
   - Video Card:  Any video card capable of display resolution mode
     of 1024 x 768 pixels / 16-bit high color or better.
   - Memory:  256 Mb RAM at the minimum, 512Mb to 1Gb DDR
     RAM ideal.
   - Hard Disk Space:  Ensure that at least 20%)
   - External Storage:  3.5" Floppy disk drive, CD/DVD burner
   - Pointing Device:  Mouse or other preferred pointer
   - External Ports:  parallel port or USB port (ask TEXMAC
     sales representative)
   - Additional Devices: Flatbed scanner (see min. system 
     requirements)
   
Lettering
How can I generate fill stitch lettering with a satin border? Ensure that you choose a Fill Stitch font family when creating your text.  From the 4 family-types, ensure that you choose either SEDS Fill or TTF Fill.  Then, after entering your text, manipulating the outlines to your desire, and have reached the point where the proposed start/end points appear on each letter (the outlines will be covered with red and green dots), find the Border Stitch Type in the settings bar at the top and choose the Satin option before generating stitches.   
   
How do I generate good-quality small lettering?   Go to the software support page on this website and click on the link for Key Settings for Lettering, which describes how to get good-quality lettering in your SEDS or iPunch system.  While for now the same as Version 6.7, the stitch values remain the same for iPunch Version 7 and 8.
   
Are there any other fill stitch options for large lettering? Yes!   There is an option located to the right of the you have the added bonus of using this option with the radial stitch lettering styles. Just activate it by changing the "Satin" option to "Fill" in the Mode Control icons. You can even control the needlepoint pattern with the cycle, offset and stitch length parameters.
   
I am trying to digitize my own satin letters.  Are there any good guidelines for doing this? 1. On lettering with "feet" or serifs, such as Times New Roman, If the "foot" or serif will result in wide satin stitches (typically wider than 6-8 mm) I definitely break it up into a separate section.

2. Satins can't "branch" - objects can't be drawn so that the satin stitch splits up into more than 1 "fork" in the road. A separate section needs to be created.

3. When breaking up a letter, think of how it is written or drawn(i.e. with a calligraphy brush) - make sure that "finishing strokes" such as the crossbar on the "t" or the loop in a cursive "o" sews atop the rest of the letter - just as it would be in sequence if drawn or painted.

4. When in doubt, examine the way the lettering was created in an SEDS Satin font - generate the stitches and try to deduce the reasoning for the way it is broken up or sequenced.
Digitizing
Besides scanning, what other ways can I use to import artwork into the program for tracing and digitizing? You can import all major graphics file formats, including BMP, TIF, JPG, GIF, PCX, and Photoshop PSD files. iPunch  will even read WMF or EMF  files, which already have objects, or wire frames that you can use to build stitch groups on. From the File pulldown menu, you can use the Import Template command to import images to trace, and Import Object command to take advantage of the special features of WMF files.
   
Is there a way to set the fill stitch angle by doing it visually instead of entering a number in degrees? Yes! Before clicking on Go to Punching, use the Ruler/Angle tool to draw a line at the desired angle. When you click to set the line, the angle is entered automatically in the fill stitch setting box.
   
Can I customize my auto lock stitch? Yes!  Go to the Tools and choose  Options. Look for the lock stitch pattern.  By default at installation the pattern is set to a single value of -0.20.  This means that after sewing the final stitch, the program adds another stitch exactly 0.2mm back along the direction of the last stitch, then sews 1 more stitch back at the final point.  You can customize this by adding negative (backwards) and positive (forward) values separated by commas.  A good  example is this popular lock stitch pattern:   

       -.5,.5,-.5

As a result, after sewing the last stitch of a given stitch block, an additional stitch is added half a mm behind the last stitch, then a second one half a mm forward, then a third half a mm behind the second, and a fourth  one back at  the final point of the stitch block.  As you may have noticed, the final return stitch does not have to be included in the numbers you list.   

Make sure you click ok in the Options box to save your changes!
   
When building a fill stitch, I get the error message "object for fill stitch is wrong".  How do I fix this?
1.  CLOSED OBJECTS:  All objects that define the fill stitch need to be CLOSED object such as a box or a circle/ellipse.  Or if you build the shape with the Polycurve tool, remember to close  the object by moving your final point atop the original point.  closed" mode before double-clicking to finish the shape.  Press the letter "O" to do this - you'll see the 2 ends join each other. 
 
2.  NON-INTERSECTING OBJECTS:  If you're creating a complex fill (i.e. one with a cutout like a donut or the side of a house with the windows cut out), make sure that the objects that define the inner cutouts are not only closed as well as in (1) above, but also don't cross each other and also don't cross the outer object as well.
 
3.  WATCH YOUR SELECTION.   Another common error that is made is that objects other than the ones you need for the fill stitch are also selected.  Try Deselect All, then re-select the object(s) with the Point Select mode (while holding the CTRL key if selecting more than one object).
   
How can I create a color fade effect in iPunch7 or 8? You can do this using the Gradient FIll stitch type  - just go to Special Stitches in the stitch type menu and choose it from there.  A common technique is to fill with a regular fill in one color first, then overlay with the gradient - the 2 will blend nicely together as long as they're laid at the same angle.  Be sure to explore all the options for varying the densities and the sides from which the gradient opens up or becomes dense.
   
How do Automatic Lock Stitches in work in iPunch7 or 8? By default, the program adds the automatic lock stitch  wherever you add a trim to your stitch group.  You can see this setting in the Mode Control functions to the right of the design magnification percentage  at the top-right portion  of the program window.  The default is " 'Auto Lock Stitch With Trim," which causes the program to do as described.  The other 2 options are "Lock Stitch On", which generates a lock stitch on every stitch block you create.  This is recommended for large satin letters.  The third option, "Lock Stitch Off, prevents auto lock stitch generation, period. 
Editing
I forgot to add underlay (or density, or pull compensation) to the stitch group I generated. How do I go back and fix this? Use the Change Stitch Settings tool to to change this or any other stitch parameter you wish to edit. Just select the stitch group you wish to edit and click on this tool in the editing section of the primary  toolbar. That stitch group's settings will be displayed in the settings box. Make any changes you wish, and right-click in the design window and choose Enter.. The program makes the changes instantly.  
   
I forgot to add underlay (or I need to adjust the density, or pull compensation) to the auto-text I generated. How do I go back and fix this? Use the Change Stitch Settings tool just like in the question above.  
   
Do you have the hotkeys for the program listed anywhere? Yes!  Here's the link:  Hotkey List for iPunch Version 7&8.
   
My fill stitch "e" has strange bulges in it when I add external (pull) compensation. I can't figure out how to get rid of them. What do I do? Use the other type of pull compensation, which allows you to enter the compensation as a value in mm.   Here's an explanation of how external compensation works in the software - you have 2 options:

By percentage: the additional width is based on a percentage of the length of that particular row of stitching. So on the "O" and the 'e"s or other letters with loops, if it's a fill stitch, from the top, it sews the tip (very short) so 10 percent (for example) of that row is very small. But as the row goes longer, 10 percent of that given row results in more and more added width. But where an "o" or an "e" suddenly splits from one long row to 2 separate rows for the sides, each separate row is suddenly much narrower, so there is dramatically less pull compensation, very suddenly. That explains why you get the strange "bulges" on either side.

By absolute value in mm: the added width is measured strictly in millimeters (example: value of 1.0 means added .5 mm on either side), regardless of the shape of the fill or satin stitch at that point. For this reason, it's often better to use this for complex fills and other stitch groups whose width varies greatly.
   
I'm new to digitizing and the file that I created sews  messy with a lot of jump stitches.  How do I clean them up? EDITING THE SEQUENCE AND PATHING OF A DESIGN

1. Check the design's sequence and the pathing.

a. View the file with jump stitches. (this tool is located at the bottom-left corner of the design window behind "View Stitches with Needle Points".

b. Open the Stitch Browser. You can see the color
sequence immediately and find unnecessary color changes.

c. Redraw the stitching to see how it sews.
d. View in Simulation - (F10) - this will show any undesirable underlay or otherwise faulty running stitches.

2. Fix the sequence inside of a stitch block with Change In and Out Points

Be sure to check back for a detailed explanation for this coming soon!
   
How do I control jump stitches and where they start or finish?  Jump stitches are controlled with good pathing procedures as you digitize.  As a rule, the program always places jump stitches between 2 given stitch groups as long as you don't tell it to trim or as long as you don't "draw" a running stitch between them as you're creating them. The jump stitches ALWAYS start at the last point of the first of said 2 stitch groups and end at the start point of the second one. You can control where the jump stitch falls by changing the starting or ending point of either stitch group. Follow the procedure below to do this.
   
How do I change where a stitch group starts and ends? 1. Select the stitch group whose starting and/or ending points you wish to change. (it is better to select only one stitch group to avoid confusion) If you're doing this to edit jump stitches, change the program view mode to "View With Jump Stitches instead of "View Stitches with Needle Points" at the lower-left corner of the design window. Jump stitches will appear as white dashed lines.
2. . Click on Change In and Out Points In the Edit tools, on the right side.
3.The  starting and ending points appear as a red and green dot. As long as they're not on top of each other, they'll be connected with a single white line (for visibility purposes, nothing else)
4. Move one or both by clicking on one (don't hold), moving it to a new location, and clicking again to set it down. You can do this as many times as you wish.
5. Right-click in the design window to re-generate that stitch group when satisfied so that it starts and finishes according to your desired changes. The jump stitches should immediately move according to what you've done.

NOTE 1: If the In or Out point is placed somewhere outside the shape of that stitch group, the program generates a running stitch to that point that sinks needle penetration points into the fabric. If this is desired, it is better to put the In or Out point on the edge nearest the location of entry/exit and travel to/from there with a manual stitch, as you'd have more control.

NOTE 2: For stitch groups imported from Tajima, EXP and other expanded design formats, changing the in and out points will not re-generate that stitch group. You'll need to recreate that stitch group or use the program's conversion tool to convert it to a condensed satin or fill stitch type.
   
How do I Resize another  Design  using iPunch 7 or 8 ? If your design was created in iPunch or are in CND format:
Select the stitches, grab one of the black corner nodes, and drag to resize!  The stitch count adjusts itself automatically.

If your design was a DST, EXP or other expanded file format:
 
1. Select the part of the design you wish to resize. If you want to resize the whole design, click CTRL+A to select all.

2. Find  the +/- key in the Primary Toolbar and click on it. (Change Size/# of stitches). You can find this behind Change Settings in the Primary toolbar - left-click and hold on the tool and you'll see the +/- icon all the way on the right.

3. The settings bar at the top will change. Find the new icon with the +/- symbol on it and click/hold on it. 3 options will appear. Left-click to choose the second one, labeled "Change Size of Stitch Groups".

4. The boxes to the right of this will change to show 2 columns of numbers:

a. The first column reflects the width of whatever you've selected in mm at the top, with the bottom showing the original percentage of the original size you're starting out with. Enter a new value in either box to resize the width. For example, if you want to double the width, enter 200%. Or if your selection is showing that it's 52mm wide (about 2 inches) and you want it to be 4 inches wide (about 101 mm), enter that value.

b. The second column reflects the height of whatever you've selected in mm at the top, with the bottom showing the percentage of the original size you're starting out with. To change the height, do the same as you did for the width. If you want to make sure the height-width ratio does not change (i.e. you don't squash or flatten the design) make sure the new percentage values in both boxes are the same.

c. Right-click in the design window and choose Enter. The selected stitches will be resized, and the stitch count will be adjusted accordingly. Note that your program will not allow the selection to be increased in size if it thinks the new size will go beyond the file's canvas size (the size shown at the top left corner of the design in mm). If you need to expand this, go to Edit..Properties and add additional height and width, click Canvas and then OK.

Note that this procedure works well (in general, there are occasional exceptions) with either stitches you've created or even expanded stitches (i.e. from an imported Tajima or EXP file).  

 
   
How do I Cut a stitch group into 2 or more parts using iPunch? 1. Select the stitch group to be cut.  To make things easier, press the letter "X" on your keyboard to "ghost out" the non-selected stitches.  
2. Click on Stitch Edit  in the Primary toolbar.

3.  Click on the stitch you wish to cut on the selected stitch group.  The stitch will be highlighted it when you select it.  You don't have to get the exact one - you can use the left and right arrow keys on your keyboard to navigate to the one you want to split!

4. .Separate the stitches.  When you've highlighted the stitch where you want the split to occur, right-click in the design window and choose "Separate Stitches" from the menu that appears.  

5.  Continue as desired! Do this by navigating forwards or backwards with the right- and left- arrow keys to other points in the selected stitch group.  If you go beyond the selected stitch group, you'll see the selection markers shift to highlight the next stitch block in sequence before or after.
File Management
What sewing formats can iPunch use?  What can it save to? iPunch Home can open these formats:  .ehf, .dst, .exp, pec, pes, pcs, pcm, hus, .sew 

iPunch Home can also save to these same formats.
I would like to email a picture of my work to a customer.  How do I create an image (jpg, bmp, etc) of my digitized file in 3-D simulation mode? There is no direct way in the current version of iPunch to do this instantly. However, you can do this yourself using the PRINT SCRN button on the keyboard of your computer.  Just follow these steps:

1.

 Open the design in iPunch and view in 3-D simulation mode using the icon or the shortcut key F10.  As a general recommendation, view it as large as you can.  Make sure the cursor is not anywhere on top of the design.

2.  

 Press the PRINT SCRN button on the keyboard of your PC and wait 1-2 seconds.  (Nothing will appear to happen.)

3.  

 Open your preferred image editing software (i.e. Photoshop, PhotoPaint, PhotoDeluxe).  If you do not have any such program installed on your computer, Microsoft Paint will do just fine (click START... PROGRAMS... ACCESSORIES... PAINT)

4.  

 Open a blank document in your image editing software (this is automatic in Paint so you can skip this step if using Paint.

5.  

 Click Edit.... then Paste.  An image of your entire Windows screen including the embroidery design in 3-D will appear. 

6.  

 Use a  Select tool in your software to select only the image of the embroidery design (in Paint, use the Rectangle Select tool) 

7.  

 Paste the image into a new window.  Choose Edit..Copy to put the selection from step (6) above into memory, then open a new file in your software and chose Edit..Paste to paste the contents in memory (in this case, the captured 3-D image of your digitized file) into a new window. 

8.  

 Save your image.  The image can now be saved in an image format that can be opened and viewed in most other computers.

 
I digitized the color groups  of my design in a scattered sequence.  How do I change the sewing sequence to simplify the color changes? Use the Stitch Browser - you'll find it at the top of the program window, just to the left of the current view magnification box.  The stitch browser displays the design as a sequential series of frames showing the sewing order by color groups.  You can click on frames to highlight them, then drag them to different positions in the sewing order.  Try right-clicking on a frame to after selecting it and you'll see a lot of other interesting options you can do with this.  
How do I combine 2 designs or paste part of a design into another? 1.  Open both designs  in iPunch 7 or 8.

2.  Select the stitches you'll be copying from the "donor" design.  If you're copying the whole design, you can do this by pressing CTRL-A (the common Windows shortcut for "Select All").

3.  Choose Copy from the Edit pulldown menu at the top of the program.

4.  Click on the design that will be "receiving" the stitches.   Make sure that its canvas area is large enough to fit both the existing stitches and the one you're about to paste.  If not, you can change this from Edit..Properties, add additional room in mm or inches, check the Canvas option and click OK..

5.  Choose Paste from the Edit pulldown menu at the top of the program.  An outline of the copied stitches appears on your cursor.  Click in the desired location to set it down.  Then, if you wish not to paste additional copies, press the ESCAPE key.